EDEN VALLEY INTRODUCTION
The Eden Valley is very pretty. One of the most magnificent views in England is that from Hartside, on the Alston to Penrith road, the A686. Standing on the rough moorland of the high Pennine escarpment, the traveller sees, to the south-west, the craggy mountains of the Lake District. Down below, between the Pennines and the Lake District lies the Eden Valley, its patchwork of fields and hedges, its fertile farmland and green woodlands contrasting with the bleak fells and crags that enclose it. The friendly and tranquil countryside invites acquaintance – and the visitor who explores it will find a land of gentle hills and streams, with unspoilt villages and small market towns without the trappings of large-scale tourism. The narrow, upper reaches are boarded by two brilliant escarpments – Mallerstang Edge to the east and the distinctive Wildboarfell to the west. In the area of Penrith the Pennine rim rises to the highest point of the entire range – Cross Fell. This so dominates that it even creates its own climate! Passing along the Eden Valley for the major part of its journey from Carlisle to Settle, the world-famous Settle-Carlisle Railway has created its own countryside corridor that attracts thousands of visitors each year.
HISTORY & HERITAGE
For thousands of years, man has inhabited this fertile landscape leaving behind him several great henges and the stone circle of Long Meg and her Daughters. Romans, Celts, Angles and Norsemen have all made their homes here in the past. Great castles bear witness to earlier conflicts in this countryside, so much desired by both English and Scots and the gateway to invasion from the north. Among the names for ever associated with this part of England are King Edward I, Robert Bruce, Richard Duke of Gloucester (later King Richard III), Mary Queen of Scots and Bonnie Prince Charlie; and, in less troubled times, Lady Anne Clifford, William Wordsworth and the ‘Yellow’ Earl of Lonsdale. Visitors interested in history and the stirring deeds of the past will find the area full of fascination. Of particular interest will be those famous castles such as those localised at Carlisle, Brougham, Penrith, Appleby and Brough.
CUSTOMS & CULTURE
A quick glance at a map will show that this valley is one of the few areas in this northern region to provide the possibility of lowland farming, the possibility being enhanced by well drained, fertile sandstone soils and a freak of nature that produces much less rainfall than the surrounding Lake District and Pennines. This farming land has been jealously guarded as it also provided a routeway for past warring factions , hence castles at places like Penrith, Carlisle , Brougham, Appleby and Brough. The traditions of the land are kept alive at the many agricultural shows of the region and the most famous of these events is the Appleby Horse Fair which may date back to 1685. This fair also celebrates the area as a routeway ,epitomised by the Settle to Carlisle Railway, as it is a great annual gathering of the ‘Travelling People’ who have traded in this area for centuries.
LANDSCAPES & LANDFORMS
The eastern scarp of the Pennines is impressive for the entire length of the valley and High Cup Nick, to the east of Dufton, is one of the wonders of the Pennines. To sit on its rim and gaze down the length of this classical landform towards the glorious Lakeland hills is to experience one of life’s magical moments. Though not immediately obvious to the casual visitor, this area is a must for all geologists containing, as it does, the famous suite of rocks known as the Cross Fell Inlier. The conical Dufton Pike and other such hills south of Cross Fell are most unusual, but it is Cross Fell itself which is the giant of the scene. If you do make the summit, beware, it is notoriously easy to lose your way on this wild, confusing height. But, if blessed with a clear day , you will enjoy a magnificent view. A much easier way to enjoy the valley is to take a ride on the most spectacular railway line in England which runs the whole length of the valley on its descent from Dent station, the highest in the country, as it leaves the Yorkshire Dales National Park.
PLACES TO VISIT & EVENTS
Carlisle Cathedral is one of the smallest in England with a fairly unimpressive exterior, but don’t be put off for the interior is sumptuous. The mighty stronghold of Carlisle Castle, housing the Museum of the Border Regiments does have an impressive exterior and one should visit the ruinous Penrith Castle at sunset when the sandstone walls turn to blood red. The towns of Appleby, Brough and Kirkby Stephen all have much to interest the visitor and historian alike. It would be difficult to single out any one particular village as they all appear to be most pleasant, especially those lying off the main A66. Pennine Way walkers will be familiar with Dufton which is a lovely example of the red-stoned villages that stand against the ‘white’ limestone backdrop of the Pennines. However, one should never forget that perhaps the best way to explore this incredible area is to take a journey between Settle and Carlisle, along the world-famous railway.
SPORTS & LEISURE
Carlisle, Penrith and Appleby all have the usual recreational facilities. The way-marked Cumbria Cycle Way includes the Eden Valley and hire facilities exist to make this one of the best ways of exploring on not too steep, quiet, roads. The Eden is a well known salmon river and there are opportunities for brown trout and grayling fishing. Racing takes place at Carlisle racecourse throughout the year and harness racing, a typically local sport, is seen occasionally at Appleby and other locations in summer. There are several golf courses and some good rock climbing. Pony trekking is available at several centres and in winter the area can be explored on skis available at Dufton. Finally this is a wonderful place to photo and ride behind some of the most powerful and majestic steam trains ever built. In addition there are the many splendours and activities of the western fringes of the Yorkshire Dales National Park as one travels to Settle, perhaps by way of the ‘hidden’ valley of Dentdale and its almost magical capital – the village of Dent.