North York Moors

Introduction

Two areas in one! An unspoilt moorland farming landscape of the North York Moors National Park and a dramatic, spectacular coastline, now protected as a ?Heritage Coast?. The characteristic purple heather-clad moors are vast in expanse and lonely. Some visitors may even find them intimidating, others will find their remoteness and massive serenity awesomely beautiful. Lush farmland fills many of the valleys which penetrate the high plateaux and are punctuated by charming stone-built villages. The whole scene typifies rural England at its best. By contrast the coast is rugged. Precipitous cliffs and rocky headlands overlook unexpected sandy bays. Anywhere there is access to the sea, a fishing village will be found, squeezed into what space is available, with the houses seemingly piled on top of one another, crowding the narrow lanes. Nothing could be more of a contrast with the comfortable, spreading greens of the dales settlements.

History & Heritage

There are isolated remains as far back as the Mesolithic and unexplained standing stones high on the moors dating from the Bronze Age. The Romans seemed to have only one road into the area which was still only occupied by hunter gatherers. The River Derwent gains its name from the Roman fort of Derventio (now Malton). In Saxon times the area was part of the Kingdom of Northumbria and its southern capital was established at Whitby. Many of the place names come from this period. Whitby was incredibly important in the history of Christianity and religious artifacts from these times litter the scenery, including many of the ancient stone crosses which are such a feature of the moors. Normans were as influential here as anywhere else, especially in the construction of huge monasteries and priories. The 'Dissolution of the Monasteries' has left the beautiful but tragic ruins of Byland, Rievaulx and Whitby Abbeys and Guisborough and Mount Grace Priories. Helmsley, Pickering and Scarborough castles, from this period, are also ruinous. The history of fishing and alum, ironstone and jet mining is extremely interesting and the ports which grew on this trade gave birth to the career of world-famous Captain James Cook.

Customs & Culture

As might be expected there are two distinct cultures based on maritime and farming backgrounds. Captain Cook has links with several places in the area and there is that wonderful whalebone arch at Whitby to remind us of the seafaring past- and the mining tradition is inexorably linked with the small ports, but it is the writings inspired by the rural farming valleys and moors which predominate. The most authoritative works are those of Canon Atkinson who published a ?Glossary of the Cleveland Dialect? in 1868. In 1891 he published his best known work ?Forty Years in a Moorland Parish? (If you really want to know about the ?soul? of the North York Moors, this book is a ?must?). John Costello was probably the nearest that an Englishman came to Scotland?s Rabbie Burns. He was a stonemason, dialect poet and celebrated Methodist preacher. The life and times of Lawrence Sterne, author of ?Tristram Shandy?, make a most illuminating study. Wood End Museum provides us with an insight into the gifted but eccentric Sitwell family. James Herriot has provided us with a witty and amusing account of dalesfolk and Alan Ayckbourne draws huge inspiration for his plays from the local people.

Landscapes & Landforms

The alternating landscape of heather-clad moorlands, intersected by green and fertile valleys, is what gives the North York Moors their special appeal. If the moors share a certain impressive singleness of character, there are, nevertheless dramatic vantage points which do something to relieve the vast expanses of wildness and desolation. Roseberry Topping and Hasty Bank in the Cleveland Hills are good examples, as are Botton Head on Urra Moor and Sutton Bank in the Hambletons. Newtondale, through which the North York Moors Railway operates, is an impressive ice-age landform as is also Forge Valley. The coast, especially between Staithes and Scarborough, is terrific. It is dominated by rugged cliffs cut by occasional valleys that sweep down to the shore. Boulby Cliff, near Staithes is the highest point, at 209 metres (690 feet) Runswick Bay has fine views and is well known to fossil hunters and artists. The coast everywhere is full of delight and interest and richly deserves its protected status as a Heritage Coast.

Places to Visit & Events

Over the years the North York Moors Railway and the Esk Valley Railway have had a huge impact on the area. The TV programme ?Heartbeat? is popularising the area like never before and it is fun to look for the locations starting with Goathland (where the police house is located) or Pickering Station (Aidensfield?s station). Pickering is a fine market town with a ruined castle and a fascinating ancient church. Helmsley Castle is a vast and impressive ruin. Scarborough Castle is another massive ruin but provides a good excuse to visit the seaside town. Rievaulx Abbey provides a spectacular retreat from the tumult of the world. The Captain Cook Museum at Marton and the Rydale Folk Museum at Hutton-le-Hole are excellent. Most of the villages are worth a visit and Goathland and Lealholm are exquisite. On the coast Staithes, Whitby and Robin Hood?s Bay all offer a taste of smuggling, fishing and just plain old-fashioned tranquillity.

Sports & Leisure

The area offers the whole range of outdoor activities both inland and on the water. The Yorkshire Gliding Club offers something different as well as microlight lessons and kite flying for the children. Fishing off the coast is hugely popular and canoes are offered inland. Parts of the area are forested providing a variety of activity including horse riding. Whatever your tastes you will be well catered for.